Chef Warren's
By Moreton Neal

SANDHILLS FUSION WITH A LOCAL TOUCH

While visiting a friend in Southern Pines a couple of years ago, I tasted one of the most memorable soups in my culinary experience (a perfectly balanced creamy tomato-fennel). Ever since that impressive meal, I've yearned to return and repeat the pleasure. To my disappointment, Sweet Basil's, the scene of my soup infatuation, serves lunch only and, not surprisingly, hungry patrons queue up for blocks waiting for a table. The same friend, a connoisseur of fine restaurants, suggested we try Chef Warren's. I was delighted for a good excuse to expand my culinary exploration of her hometown, just over an hour down the road from the Triangle area.

Like most American towns these days, Southern Pines has two faces. Its public persona isn't much different from that of others situated along a major highway: an interminable franchise row assaulting drivers with American generica. McDonald's is there, of course, along with its fast-food cousins, presenting dcor and menu pretty much the same as everywhere else. But drive a couple of blocks east and you discover the other face of Southern Pines. You won't be disappointed- it's a beauty. But, like many beauties, Southern Pines seems almost unreal. There's not a sign of shabbiness in sight, no aura of faded glory so typical of many small towns in North Carolina.

Southern Pines and its neighbor Pinehurst are no decaying vestiges of the agricultural old South. Each was founded after the Civil War by wealthy Northern industrialists for reasons purely recreational. The unusually balmy microclimate of the Sandhills drew golfers to the area at the tail end of the 19th century, and its soft sandy soil appealed to the horsey set.

Today, Southern Pines displays the unspoiled innocence of a 1950s family movie. The relaxed, friendly pace is typically southern, but there is also a lovingly manicured quality reminiscent of New England villages. It comes as no surprise, then, that so many Northerners are attracted to this unusual little town, in many ways more typical of north Connecticut than North Carolina. Among these expatriates from above the Mason Dixon line are Warren and Marianne Lewis, proprietors of Chef Warren's.

How did this husband and wife team and Southern Pines find each other? A friend, the chef at a Pinehurst country club, invited the couple to visit. Marianne was immediately smitten with the area and encouraged her husband to accept the sous chef position at the same club. Warren gave up his job cooking at Chef Allen's in Miami (Allen Susser's world-renowned restaurant), moved to Southern Pines and never looked back. Quite simply, "Florida didn't offer the lifestyle we wanted and Southern Pines did." In 1999 the couple opened their own place on Broad Street, just a block or so from Sweet Basil and a short walk from their own home.

"There is a great sense of community here," enthused Marianne. "We personally know about a third of our patrons, and they trust us enough that they try the things we love to experiment with-exotic game, ostrich. We know what the regulars like to drink-it's a lot like a neighborhood restaurant in Paris. Another third have been introduced by the regulars." I imagine the remaining third find out about the place through the press. Several national golf magazines pinpoint Chef Warren's as the best dining spot among many notable eateries in Moore County.

Chef Warren's has the familiar look and structure of a classic bistro: large rectangular space with amber-tinted walls, tin ceiling, cozy banquettes. But in the spot where you would expect a bar, there is an open kitchen where Warren visibly performs his magic as Marianne greets guests. Both clearly enjoy their business, a natural extension of their warm personalities and talents.

LOCAL TOUCH, INTERNATIONAL CUISINE

As we chatted with each Lewis in turn, we sipped Veuve-Clicquot champagne and sampled the menu. First came Lobster Rangoon, an Asian-style fried dumpling served with a smoky-hot chipotle dipping sauce. Next, Blueberry Pancakes with Foie Gras, which sounded overly ambitious until our first bite assuaged all doubts. Intrigued by the ostrich daily special, we tried this beefy-tasting poultry served on a bed of gingery greens. "This tastes like food in Vietnam," my experienced companion observed, discerning a combination of French and Southeast Asian flavors. The eclectic menu reflects the travels of the couple. With degrees in Chinese law (hers) and engineering (his) the Lewises both aban-doned their established career paths to roam the world together.

Warren reminisced, "We ate our way through the three greatest cuisines- French/Italian, Indian, and Chinese." On returning to the United States they shifted gears. Warren abandoned engineering for good and enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, while Marianne tended bar in New York City.

Warren described his cooking philosophy as we savored the rest of dinner. "We like to use local organic produce, but use Fed Ex for many other items. The unusual sea bass you are tasting came in today from Costa Rica. You can get fresh ingredients from anywhere in the world now in less than 24 hours. Our summer menu includes lighter food with flavors that are happy and alive-mint, basil and ginger." On the other end of the spectrum, one entree item stood out: "Obscenely Large Pork Chop with Macaroni and Cheese." Sounds perfect for a chilly day after 18 holes of golf, but we resisted in order to save room for the delectable Venezuelan Chocolate Mousse, Warren's innovative interpretation of an old classic.

With a menu that features fusion-sounding items such as "Five Spice Dusted Long Island Duck with Wasabi Mashed Potatoes, Baby Bok Choy and Guava Soy Glaze," I was curious about where the Lewises liked to eat on their day off. "We drive an hour to Cary for sushi at Kashin. A lot of chefs are big sushi fans. It's clean, neat and doesn't make you think too much. You can enjoy it without saying to yourself, 'I would do this another way.' It is what it is."

The same can be said of Chef Warren's special charm. It is what it is, a hometown mom-and-pop bistro with international flair. Here you can count on a warm welcome from the proprietors and much more-world-class food that meets the high expectations of a sophisticated clientele. I'll be going back soon for Warren's obscene pork chop, and I'm willing to bet that Marianne will remember exactly what I like to drink.

Chef Warren's
Address: 215 Northeast Broad Street, Southern Pines
Hours: Open nightly except Sundays
Telephone: 910-692-5240
No smoking
Credit cards: Master Charge, Visa, Am Ex, Discover

Originally published on:
http://www.metronc.com/

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